Wood | Lakeview | Contemporary/Regional | Restaurant
Double-fried Belgian frites at Backwoods, the late-night take-out window at Wood

Double-fried Belgian frites at Backwoods, the late-night take-out window at Wood

Andrea Bauer

Seasonal small plates from chef Ashlee Aubin. Backwoods, a take-out window out back, offers Belgian frites after 10 PM, and the bar's open till 3 on Saturdays, other nights till 2.

Our Review

Another small-plates joint, this one bringing its typically diffuse menu—beet salad and pork belly, flatbreads and pasta, charcuterie and cheese plates, oversweetened cocktails—to the heart of Boystown. To be fair, sometimes you just want french fries with your spaghetti, and chef Ashlee Aubin, a vet of Alinea, HB Home Bistro, and Zealous, doesn't do too badly at all. Moreover, those fries—double-fried Belgian frites sold from Backwoods, a window out back, after 10 PM but available anytime—are his real ace in the hole. And while much is made of the wood-burning oven, Aubin's crew elsewhere evinces a particular facility with frying, whether turning out light ricotta-and-basil-stuffed squash blossoms or late-season soft-shell crab. There are also a couple of worthy house-made pastas such as ruddy tagliatelle with a tomatoey sausage ragu, and a handful of larger plates like lobster in a panko-fried eggplant patty that distinguish themselves from more typical dishes (short ribs, roasted chicken) and show Aubin's commitment to sticking with the seasons and changing things up with regularity. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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