Wholly Frijoles Mexican Grill | Lincolnwood | Mexican/Southwestern | Restaurant
Immensely popular strip-mall Mexican joint in Lincolnwood. Reservations available Monday-Thursday only.

Our Review

Is this the place that launched a thousand trips to far north Lincolnwood? Many reputable sources have proclaimed this strip-mall Mexican joint to be outstanding. I found it . . . OK, not bad, but probably not worth the ride for anyone south of Lawrence. Shortly after being seated, foreboding fell upon us as we received a basket of factory-manufactured chips; we perked up with the tortilla soup, thick and pleasantly piquant. Whole red snapper was probably the best dish we had, fresh tasting and fried right (they have a hand with snapper here). The shrimp were overcooked, but braised lamb turned out to be remarkably meaty, a premium piece cut off the bone for easy eating; we liked it. Stuffed chicken breast had a hint of something like nacho cheese, though we enjoyed the mashed potatoes with chipotle peppers, perhaps "inauthentic" but entirely satisfying. Flour tortillas seemed good enough to be house-made, and the eponymous frijoles were chunky and good if not life altering. Overall, the food seemed of high quality, just seriously lacking cojones; still, with no corkage fee, dining here is a decent deal.

David Hammond

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