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The ur-thin crust pizza of the south side since 1945.

Our Review

Despite hints of balkanization in the Barraco family -- there's an unaffiliated suburban location-- the original Vito & Nick’s has reigned as the thin crust pizza of the south side since 1945. Its squadron of white-shirted dough boys is well trained, and great care is taken to ensure that pies emerge from the oven as nothing less than paragons of pie maker’s art. A bit thicker than the advertised cracker-thin, the crust is toasty bottomed and only lightly cornmealy, and there’s nary a hint of glueyness topside -- the perfect canvas for the ballsy sauce and bubbling cheese, baked to the very brink of browning. There’s a perfunctory selection of red-sauce and bar food, the most unusual example being the Big Nicky, a fat patty of spicy fried Italian sausage on pizza bread, thinly blanketed by melted provolone, served with waffle fries and a dipping cup of marinara sauce. This location packs families in, serves very large and inexpensive cocktails, and seems unaltered since its 1965 opening, with brown shag-carpeted walls, an enshrined portrait of the very late Vito, and weary waitresses whose dogs may have been barking here since day one.

Mike Sula

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Price: $

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