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CLOSED. Restaurant from longtime N9ne chef Michael Shrader featuring seafood and small plates, many of them roasted in a wood-fired oven.

Our Review

At Urban Union, the Taylor Street small-plates wine bar from chef Michael Shrader, the menu derives from the Publican school of brawny, barely manipulated meats and sea creatures, many of which pass through a wood-burning oven. The rest of the menu's filled out with vegetables and a trio of house-made pastas, all prepared with Shrader's simple, almost minimalist approach. This kind of cooking should never go out of style, and at Urban Union it has its best effect on such dishes as perfectly executed, tender octopus tentacles, and vegetables, which fill out a full quarter of the menu: sweet baby turnips, nutty charred brussels sprouts, fat slices of salty roasted apple lined up under a blanket of greens. There are a half-dozen wines on tap to go with these plates, with almost three dozen other wines available by the glass. Desserts were across-the-board winners, particularly a pair of pistachio cakes with billows of toasted meringue and candied lemons, and a riff on a Kit Kat bar, a chocolate mousse cake with a rich chocolate pudding, made crunchy with pulverized hazelnuts. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx

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