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Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in the Langham hotel; the new chef is Ricardo Jarqin.

Our Review

This Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in the Langham hotel reveals an intent to break from the staid predictability on which hotel restaurants all too often depend. Opening chef Tim Graham, formerly of Tru and Paris Club, offers fine dining with options to go lower: So, for example, you could eat with your hands all night with a $135 seafood elevation, then mussels and frites, and finally a crispy flatbread with merguez sausage and-olives. Or you could obstinately stick with your utensils and dig into, e.g., great boulders of gamy, fried confit suckling pig nestled among slabs of squash and fig. But as with any menu this varied and long (there are a full 11 categories), you face a minefield. Among the salumi and cheese boards, there's a selection of "seacuterie" that includes things like whitefish rillettes, thinly sliced octopus carpaccio, and a stiff "bouillabaisse" aspic bombe; all, however, arrived too cold. A wonderfully tender grilled octopus was spoiled by mushy, oversalted eggplant caponata, while a thick halibut fillet was simply overcooked. More than anything I was looking forward to trying the desserts by pastry chef Scott Green, but I was discouraged by soggy slabs of Nutella baklava and an almond olive oil cake whose dryness was matched by the mealiness of a roasted white peach. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$$
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    • 5/10-10/25: Wed 5-10 PM $45

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