The Red Lion Grill | Logan Square | English/Irish/Scottish, Bar/Lounge | Restaurant
The Red Lion Grill

The Red Lion Grill

Julia Thiel

BYO British-style grill not related to Red Lion Pub, the classic Lincoln Park bar

Our Review

Almost as soon as the flashing neon sign on Armitage went up, the words "Pub and" were covered by black plastic. It turned out that the Red Lion Pub in Lincoln Park, which closed six years ago, was reopening. The restaurant hasn’t yet received its liquor license. It’s a little disconcerting to walk into a place that's clearly modeled after a British pub and not be able to order a pint (plus the atmosphere is a little too cafeteria-like to be cozy). The menu hews pretty closely to the classics of British pub grub, some of which overlap with standard American bar food: wings, potato skins, cheese sticks, chicken tenders, and burgers (including several veggie burgers). There's also shepherd's pie, fish and chips, bangers and mash, and on the weekends, beef Guinness. Fries were crispy and well seasoned, better than your average fried potato. But the thin pastry surrounding the sausage roll was limp, no match for the greasy sausage inside. A steak pie arrived sadly underseasoned, but a hefty dose of salt and pepper improved it exponentially, and the pastry shell was crisp and flaky. Scrod almondine was the dish I'd go back for, though: the sauce was buttery but not greasy, and the sliced almonds provided the right flavor and texture to balance the tender fish.

Julia Thiel

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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