The Publican | West Loop/Fulton Market | American, Contemporary/Regional, Bar/Lounge, Craft Beer | Restaurant
Fried smelt with harissa aioli and crudites

Fried smelt with harissa aioli and crudites

Julia Thiel

Brasserie-style gastropub focusing on snout-to-tail cooking, oysters, and beer.

Our Review

On a busy night diners can wait upwards of an hour to knock elbows with their neighbors at communal tables at this shrine to pork, oysters, and beer. But the food, under executive chef Paul Kahan and chef de cuisine Cosmo Goss, is pretty great. The menu changes daily but stays relentlessly on its snout-to-tail message. Rillettes were a rich jam of concentrated pork fat and flavor; frites topped with a poached organic egg would’ve made a decadent breakfast. A briny Penn Cove oyster, one of six varieties on the menu that day, was silkenly sublime. And the pork rinds—gussied up bar bites—were revelatory, lighter than air yet still chewy, hit with an invigorating splash of malt vinegar.

Martha Bayne

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, MasterCard, Visa

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