The Kitchen Chicago | River North | American | Restaurant
Kitchen Chicago offers views of the Chicago River.

Kitchen Chicago offers views of the Chicago River.

Andrea Bauer

Farm-to-table from a Colorado-based chain

Our Review

Avec vet Johnny Anderes runs the kitchen, working from a template fairly similar to that of this minichain's Colorado restaurants, with a raw bar and a few of their signature dishes among his own starters, pastas, and mains. The location overlooking the river is lovely. The solid but somewhat boring plates coming from Anderes's open kitchen are all over the map. For the most part they're competently done. A quartet of four large, misshapen goat cheese gougeres is molten hot beneath its golden brown exterior. A thick slice of bread is layered with melted, almost foamy burrata and anchoyade, an anchovy-based dip. Cold slices of pink pork tenderloin are showered in chopped hard-cooked eggs, radishes, and sprouts. Chewy slabs of seared duck liver and thick bacon lardons in a savory gravy have a similar effect on a serving of locally ground Hazzard Free Farm polenta. Garlicky Maine mussels adorned by Fresno chile and thyme are about as sweet and plump as one could hope for. Entrees are more problematic, with a half Cornish hen sitting atop a scattering of cassoulet-like beans and sausage, fairly lost in the middle of a huge earthenware bowl. Same goes for a pool of salty chowder harboring a few clams and root vegetables, almost entirely covered by a couple pieces of wheat toast. The trout fillet is more substantial and a far better value. Desserts by pastry chef Claire Smith—a rich, gooey toffee pudding, a slice of pumpkin pie shot with cardamom and sprinkled with pepitas—are satisfying. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
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