Taus Authentic | Wicker Park/Bucktown | American | Restaurant
Former Zealous chef Michael Taus returns with a menu of globally influenced cuisine.

Our Review

Veteran chef Michael Taus says he's recently spent much of his time traveling, and that's certainly reflected in his latest menu, which makes lots of references to various global cuisines—mostly Asian, but also Spanish, North African, Greek, and Italian, all represented within the framework of the classic French technique he was trained in. There was a dosa with curry on the menu when he closed Zealous, and there's one on the menu at his new Taus Authentic. Unlike the common thin, crisp Indian crepe, this dosa is soft like a pancake, enveloping roasted sunchokes. A smear of mild red curry dotted with golden raisins is a more perceptible nod to the subcontinent. Taus's Asian accents are frequently just as subtle, sometimes enough to seem absent. But it isn't just Asian flavors that are subdued. Many dishes taste as if all they need is a hit of acid or salt to bring out their natural flavors. This apparently willful overrestraint is confusing, but it isn't a consistent problem. Some dishes taste just fine. Taus himself is gregarious and ever present in the dining room, a vibrant figure who warms up the large but segmented dining room. It's a presence at odds with flavors that just aren't popping the way the menu promises.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

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