It's hard not to be dubious when a restaurant menu cuts as broad a culinary swath as Tamarind's--the multipage document covers an exhausting range of Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Vietnamese dishes. But for the most part this "eclectic Asian" place in the South Loop acquits itself well, though authenticity is obviously not a priority. The ahi-poki tuna was a tasty scoop of diced raw fish mixed with avocado and scallions, topped with a dollop of masago and served in a martini glass on a festive tangle of radish. A "carpaccio trio" of yellowtail, salmon, and super white tuna was lightly dressed in a sweet ponzu sauce that didn't overpower the fish. Our entrees were similarly well constructed: rich slices of panfried Tamarind duck were wrapped in slabs of duck fat and accompanied by crisp snow peas and veggies; grilled pork with vermicelli was tender and tangy and served with a delicately spiced pork spring roll; the "red dragon" maki was savory and smooth. Wash it all down with a couple of "fruitinis" -- in our case fresh pear juice, ginger, and vodka -- and the stress of that overwhelming menu washes away as well.
Price: $$
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