Table, Donkey and Stick | Logan Square | European | Restaurant
Alpine-inspired restaurant in the former Bonsoiree space; the chef is Scott Manley (Vie).

Our Review

Table, Donkey and Stick, a new restaurant in the former Bonsoiree space, derives its name from a Brothers Grimm tale and its cuisine from the Alps—which means, for one, a wanderteller ("hiker's plate") of cured meats, with a lineup that includes bloodred smoked venison tenderloin, coins of firm blood sausage, and thin sheets of pheasant galantine seasoned with coffee and fennel. Chef Scott Manley's excellent charcuterie is well augmented by the generous bread service—a buckwheat baguette and a crock of pork rillettes—and a small selection of European cheeses, served alongside a dish of honey and slices of sunflower-oat bread. I'd eagerly return for these ever-changing assortments, as well as for a bowl of maultaschen, a kind of sliced ravioli stuffed with minced smoked chicken, or polenta with sharp Gorgonzola, topped with thick slabs of bacon and trumpet mushrooms, its richness relieved just enough by a garnish of pickled red pepper. Everyone should have a mutant, Dali-esque soft pretzel, its dough worked with pork fat. Still, from a dull, gray turnip soup to a gluey smoked whitefish and white bean salad, too much on this concise menu reinforces old stereotypes of the dreary, heavy food of the Continent. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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