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Pan-Asian and sushi from the owners of Rise and Shine; formerly Farmerie 58.

Our Review

Maybe three's a charm. Jeff Zhang and Sandy Yu (Jia's, Shine, Rise) transformed their Republic Pan-Asian and Sushi Restaurant into Farmerie 58, and now they've changed it to Sushi Taiyo, sacrificing the "local, sustainable" mantra in favor of an extensive, loosely Japanese menu. The street-level space--the new main dining room--has been redone and looks both warmer and more dramatic, with red accents, 60s-style orange-upholstered Knoll chairs flanking rows of dark laminate tables, a bar on one side, and a sushi station in back. On my visit, the upstairs dining room was being turned into a lounge. Much of the sushi remains from previous incarnations, and it was ultrafresh, especially in the "new style sashimi appetizer," a choice of three fish and three sauces--we had hamachi with soy-ginger--strewn with microgreens and accompanied by a small salad. One of a long list of signature rolls, the tasty kochi maki had marinated lobster and avocado inside and slices of unagi and eel sauce outside, but the rice was a bit mushy. Scallops baked with enoki mushrooms in individual shells were delicious, thanks mostly to the rich garlic-chile cream sauce. I also liked the lamb lollipops, really just baby chops, paired with thin noodles tossed with greens in a soy-based sauce. Alas, the shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer was a leaden, oily dud. The affable, knowledgeable waiter said his favorite big plate was chile-garlic prawns, so we took his advice and got seven, tail-on, partially butterflied, succulent jumbo shrimp artfully arranged atop a mix of onions, red bell peppers, and still-crisp okra in a piquant sauce. The intensely bittersweet chocolate ganache tart with chocolate ice cream was top-notch, but slightly spongy lychee cake with refreshing pomegranate sorbet cried for a fresh lychee garnish. Many of the fancy cocktails and other libations are holdovers.

Anne Spiselman

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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