Sushi Dokku | West Loop/Fulton Market | Asian, Japanese | Restaurant
click to enlarge sushidokku.jpg

Sarah Nardi

Sushi spot from the owners of the former Sushi Wabi.

Our Review

Run by Susan Thompson and Angela Hepler-Lee, two alumni of the late Sushi Wabi, and located on Randolph just one block east from the erstwhile spot, Sushi Dokku promises aficionados of the old place a trip back in time. But on a recent visit, the food was exceptional, perhaps even surpassing my memories. We started with lightly fried shishito peppers dusted with delicate bonito flakes and a plate of bigeye tuna tataki, perfectly seared and served with a spicy mustard sauce. Next came unagi nigiri, rich pieces of freshwater eel atop perfect mounds of sushi rice and topped with flecks of fried shallots. We also tried the tuna truffle nigiri, and while the flavor of truffle is nothing to complain about (I'd lick it off the sidewalk), it was in this case so intense that it rendered the tuna little more than a conduit, which seemed like a waste. But in all the flavors were so welcome and familiar that it really wasn't until halfway through that I realized dining at Sushi Dokku is nothing like a night out at Sushi Wabi. I could hear every word my companion said, and I could see: my menu, my food, my hand in front of my face. Restaurants lit like sensory-deprivation tanks no longer seem so chic.

Sarah Nardi

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