Spritz Burger | Lakeview | Burgers, Breakfast, Bar | Restaurant
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Jeffrey Marini

The former Hearty, now a gourmet burger/brunch/dessert spot (cocktails too) from the Hearty Boys and pastry chef Gale Gand.

Our Review

Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh, aka the Food Network's Hearty Boys, have pooled their semicelebrity with gal pal Gale Gand (ex-Tru) to open a burger joint in the space that formerly housed their comfort-food spot Hearty. Apart from the image of a ferocious giant chipmunk sipping a soda on the back wall, Spritz Burger feels little different from its predecessor; likewise, there's little to distinguish Spritz Burger from others on the crowded upscale-burger bandwagon. In fact, the 13 beef (and other) burgers seem almost ancillary in light of McDonagh's seltzer-spiked cocktails and Gand's half-dozen twists on nostalgic desserts. The thick grass-fed patties are piled with frequently unstable toppings, a la Kuma's et al, the most extreme example (apart, perhaps, from a poutine burger) being the Madron, an open-face patty piled with Havarti, onion, a fried egg, hollandaise, and two leathery slices of Spam. Served on a slab of savory bread pudding, it's a landslide waiting to happen. The balance of the menu is devoted to salads and American comfort-food appetizers and entrees, many deep-fried. Better by far are those cocktails, made with house-made syrups, and Gand's sweets, best enjoyed in the $9 trio option, which allows you to pick three from a list including her signature lemon meringue pie and a float made with her proprietary root beer. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
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Bar Details

Drinking Malort with soda is about as proper as sipping a first-growth Bordeaux on the rocks, but that's the way they pour it at Spritz Burger. Hearty Boy Steve McDonagh has come up with a list of seltzer-spiked cocktails (hence the spritzed Malort) that includes balanced potions such as a Tom Collins rounded with house-made grilled-pineapple syrup or a concoction of rum and batavia arrack with Thai curry flavors. Excepting that watered-down Malort, this is one of the more likably contrarian cocktail programs in the city right now. —Mike Sula


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