Son of a Butcher | Logan Square | Contemporary/Regional | Restaurant
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Andrea Bauer

A trendy, meat-centric spot from actual grandson of a butcher Adolfo Garcia.

Our Review

Son of a Butcher has adopted the familiar veneer of hipster meat-cutter chic that's been orthodox in Logan Square and other old-fangled zip codes for nearly a half decade. Signaled by taxidermy, ornately framed vintage photos, and old-timey signage, this well-worn shtick comes from owner Adolpho Garcia (Pearl Tavern, Heating & Cooling), whose grandparents actually worked the trade. Naturally, you expect a predominance of dishes that will give vegetarians the heaves. One such spectacle is a ginger beer-braised beef neck, an enormous, ungainly hunk of muscle that quickly becomes a burden. Other duds include a hog Wellington so heavy you could bowl a strike with it and a sausage roll loaded with bland kidney beans. These lapses are surprising in light of the facility Valdez displays elsewhere, accenting heavy, challenging meats with bright, sweet, or sour accents. For all this carnage, Valdez does right by vegetarians, featuring eight meatless dishes, like "chicharrones" made from rice flour dredged through piquant salsa verde and giardiniera. A sign in the men's room says, "Take a moment for yourself, there is no better place than here"—but at the moment there are definitely better places to be.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

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