Sink | Swim | Logan Square | Seafood | Restaurant
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Andrea Bauer

A cozy new seafood spot from the Scofflaw Group.

Our Review

Chef Matt Danko, the former pastry chef from Cleveland who's at the helm of this Logan Square spot, has created an ambitious and well thought-out menu that somehow manages to eschew some of seafood's most appealing aspects: the sweetness and snap of shrimp, the golden sear on a meaty piece of fish, the butter-drenched broiled something or other. Still, the Scofflaw Group has created a dining experience that'll likely win over the denizens of a neighborhood with only a handful of seafood-specific options. Judging by the crowds, it already has. A lot of Danko's dishes have at least one vegetal, one dairy, one nutty element (sometimes contributed by aged cheese), and, often, a pop of citrus. In a dish of "chewy beets" with shaved pear and frisee, a smear of sunflower milk does dairy-nutty double duty. Incorporating these elements on the same plate is clever, particularly when the execution is good. For instance, the garlic panisse are melty little cuboid croquettes, crispy and crackly on the outside and almost liquid within. The cocktail menu at Scofflaw's sibling strikes all the right chords. While a meal at Sink | Swim may or may not scratch a seafood itch, everyone seems to be falling for it, hook, line, and sinker.

Gwynedd Stuart

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

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