"They used to do this a hundred years ago in Naples," the chef at Sapore di Napoli told us as he slammed a wad of dough against the counter--a little open-kitchen entertainment before the meal. The dozen kinds of authentic Italian-style pizza here include salsiccia e cipolle (Italian sausage with smoked mozzarella and onions), verdure (mushrooms, zucchini, eggplant, and roasted peppers), and quattro stagioni (artichokes, prosciutto di parma, mushrooms, and olives). Thanks to the 800° brick oven, theyre all rapidly prepared in "like, five minutes," said our server, and feature a crackerlike crust. A cooler holds about 14 flavors of gelato and sorbetto, all so good that you could be excused for playing dumb just to get samples. More exotic varieties include zabaglione, made with sweet marsala and tasting a lot like eggnog. We found the service at this small, warm restaurant endearing: setting down after-dinner coffee, our server said proudly, "I steamed the milk for you, so theres no coldness!"
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