Salpicon
1252 N. Wells St.Chicago, IL 60610-1916
Old Town
312-988-7811
salpicon.com
Hours: Dinner: seven days
Sunday brunch
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
Our Review
In 1995 Priscila Satkoff was one of the first Topolobampo/Frontera graduates to strike out on her own, and the continued success of Salpicon is as much a credit to her skills as it is to the enduring power of Rick Bayless’s tireless advocacy for authentic Mexican cuisine among the gringos. Though she didn’t actually cook for Bayless—she was his assistant—the Mexico City native’s early training at the side of her mother and grandmother helped propel her tiny Old Town spot to an upscale destination rivaling her old boss’s. It continues to bustle, well served by smart waitstaff unafraid to tell you what they think of your order and a sommelier who knows his Super Tuscans just as well as his tequilas. On my recent visit we ordered almost entirely from the week’s specials and were stupefied by a duck confit dressed with cracklings and a sauce of pomegranate, orange, and chiles; a big, beautiful sloppy lamb shank in mole rojo with a side of bacony chiles and beans; and a mango-pear tart, all showing Satkoff’s knack for balancing the sweet, fruity, earthy, smoky, savory, and picante.
Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
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