Salero | West Loop/Fulton Market | Tapas/Spanish | Restaurant
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Andrea Bauer

Modern Spanish cuisine from chef Ashlee Aubin.

Our Review

Busy Randolph Row seems the right place for Salero, with its highly stylized interpretation of Spanish food. Unlike previous generations of Spanish restaurants, Salero is not about small plates. It's about appetizers and big entrees. The fairly large, relatively complicated, nonclassical Spanish-influenced plates are dressed with cheffy touches, and a lot of them pass under the kitchen's wood-burning plancha. Chef Ashlee Aubin occasionally fills his plates with complementing and contrasting accents to the point of excess, as on a plate of sweetbreads in a truffly sauce Périgueux. A Moroccan-accented duck breast is undercut by accompanying dry, confit-stuffed grape leaves and a grayish "burnt" eggplant puree. Slightly less busy dishes come off better, like chorizo-stuffed joints of boned-out quail. Despite these meaty offerings, Salero is mostly at its best when it comes to seafood. A basic Catalan seafood stew is as simple as it gets: a light, saffron-scented sherry broth bathing gently cooked shrimp, mussels, scallops, and salt cod. But the most magnificent dish is a whole Maine lobster, split and grilled, sitting atop a pile of Manila clams and firm fideos. There are plenty of interesting things to drink with all of this—dozens of Spanish reds, a quartet of uncommon ciders, and a number of sherries, ideal for finishing off the meal with some cheese, churros, and chocolate or a silky flan. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa


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