Salatino's | University Village/Little Italy | Italian | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
CLOSED. Old-school southern Italian place modeled on the longtime Taylor Street spot Gennaro's.

Our Review

One of the latest projects from Scott Harris, this one with Jimmy Bannos Sr., Salatino's resurrects Gennaro's, the Taylor Street red-sauce joint that banked a half-century's worth of neighborhood goodwill before closing in 2009. Servers at Salatino's never fail to remind you that Mary Jo Gennaro herself is in the kitchen, overseeing execution of the original recipes, and though some murky dispute kept the original name off the door, blown-up black-and-white family photos are plastered all over the place. In Gennaro they have a beloved, critic-proof figurehead, and though I suspected she might be present in name only, on a busy Sunday night when staffers were apologizing for service disruptions caused by a comrade's no-show, she appeared in the dining room with a pad and began kicking ass and taking orders. What comes out of that kitchen is less surprising: obscenely huge portions of red-gravy-drenched pastas and meats that underscore Italian-American stereotypes just as pervasively as anything perpetrated by The Sopranos or The Godfather. Apparently this typically American legacy of overindulgence as applied to southern Italian food never gets old. We know that Harris and Bannos are more than capable of creating truly groundbreaking restaurants—this just ain't it. But obviously, if the bustling dining area and bar are any proof, there's still a place for it in this world. They've simply given the people what they want. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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