Sabor Ixtapa | Suburbs Northwest | Mexican/Southwestern | Restaurant
Strip-mall Mexican restaurant unlikely to be worth the trip.

Our Review

Sometimes, a book’s cover tells all you need to make a judgment about its contents. So it is with Sabor Ixtapa. This slickish mall restaurant, whose logo is a mustachioed chile pepper, serves what you’d expect: chips that taste from a bag, salsa from a jar, margaritas from a mix, and recipes pumped out according to some mass-appeal agenda designed to displease only those numbskulls like me who enter expecting something like decent Mexican food. My dining companion ordered queso fundido, a bowl of personality-free cheese, microwaved into submission. Cecina, the traditional dry and salted steak that is elsewhere in Chicago so fine, has here a rank overmarinated tang and is barely edible. The chicken in salsa verde was a marriage of convenience between gnarly chicken and a sauce that had, as its predominant flavor, aggressive sourness. Hoping to find something we liked on the menu, we sampled fideos Guerrero, a breathtakingly misbegotten combination of diced meat and sweet pepper over pasta. The enchiladas in mole were edible to the extent that they had little taste and thus offered little to offend--they were probably the best thing we ate.

David Hammond

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Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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