RPM Steak | River North | Steaks/Lobster | Restaurant
click to enlarge RPM Steak

RPM Steak

Andrea Bauer

Steak house from Lettuce Entertain You

Our Review

Like most Chicago steak houses, Lettuce Entertain You's RPM Steak is about much more than beef. There's the de rigueur raw bar, the familiar appetizers (bacon, foie gras) and sides (sauteed spinach, Hasselback potatoes), and the large selection of seafood and other nonbovine entrees. But RPM Steak is doing things quite differently than the typical Chicago expense-account feeding lot. A pair of small "coal roasted" king crab legs is served in a giant bowl filled with what looks like road salt. Long roasted marrow bones are revived with smoked paprika and curry spices. The wedge salad is atypical: very lightly and sharply dressed with something closer to vinaigrette in flavor than the usual molten gobs of blue cheese dressing. Similarly, the Caesar is nearly minimal; the only hint at a break in form is the anchovies curled and nested in the yolk of a deviled egg. On a menu of this scope there are bound to be a few duds—here they're oversalted brussels sprouts, bland curried cauliflower, and perhaps the biggest letdown: whole Dover sole in a sickly sweet sauce. Among the nonbeef options, there's a wonderful broiled black cod fillet. As for the steaks, you can top out at $155 for a 42-ounce Wagyu tomahawk. But the best values on the menu can be found under the heading "butcher's cuts," where a revelatory short-rib steak satisfies for just around $30. Things become relatively ostentatious at dessert, where a flaming baked Alaska can be upstaged by a brick of chocolate cake flecked with gold leaf, a gaudiness really only matched by the clientele. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa


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