This location has been flagged as "Closed".
CLOSED. Restaurant in historic Thalia Hall offering a full Italian menu in addition to gelato and pizza.

Our Review

This dramatic spot in Pilsen's landmark Thalia Hall lives up to its name, with ornate tin ceilings, gleaming woodwork, glowing chandeliers, and painted stage drapes framing the mouth of the wood-burning oven. Slightly puffy and thin crusted, the pizzas come with 20 topping combos ranging from a simple margherita to the al Teatro, baby shrimp and prosecco bechamel on sauteed spinach. But our pizza rustica rated little applause: the crust was standard for its type, and the mix of filetto di pomodoro (fresh tomato pulp), partially caramelized onions, asparagus, mozzarella, and barely there shaved grana and oregano lacked pizzazz. We preferred an opener of tender grilled squid, tossed with a few arugula leaves, and a well-seasoned secondo, galletto al Teatro, a small but mostly moist roasted half chicken with garlic, lemon, asparagus, and fancily cut potatoes. Tortelloni alla boscaiola, one of several handmade pastas, consisted of three large, flat mushroom-filled packets in an unapologetically rich cream sauce. Owner Dominick Geraci is also behind Ukrainian Village's Caffe Gelato, and not surprisingly the many gelati—24 flavors—are the best desserts. The wine list is small but offers quite a few bottles for less than $30, and there's a new outdoor patio. On Sundays from 11 AM to 3 PM there's a $10 all-you-can-eat brunch buffet featuring an omelet station, chilaquiles, fajitas, a pasta of the day, and more, plus $5 mimosas, $6 Bloody Marys, and $7 Micheladas.

Anne Spiselman

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Price: $$
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