Restaurant Buen Gusto | Rogers Park/West Rogers Park | Mexican/Southwestern | Restaurant
Taqueria from a couple of restaurant veterans; pastor is a specialty.

Our Review

The taqueria empire of North Clark Street extends its dominion eastward with this austere little storefront, located on Howard just across the Red Line tracks. It’s sparsely decorated--the walls sport a photo of historic New York City as well as the requisite sombrero-topped cartoon figure--and on a recent visit, sparsely patronized. Still, Buen Gusto might fill a niche as a commuters’ destination: the food here is nothing if not cheap, filling, and portable. A chorizo and egg torta dressed with mayo was salty, heavy, and not unsatisfying; enchiladas were about the same. The tacos were the best of what I tried, with fresh and well-flavored meat under a slather of queso. Chicken and steak varieties were both quite good; I’d heard that pastor was a specialty here, but by Saturday night it was sold out. Standard-issue green and red salsas came alongside; the red was described to me as the spicier option, but it’s pretty weak sauce--I preferred the green, its acidic kick sufficient to cut through the meats’ saltiness. Counter service is charmingly awkward.

Sam Worley

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Price: $

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