Red Door | Wicker Park/Bucktown | Contemporary/Regional, Global/Fusion/Eclectic, Gastropub, Patio /Beer Garden | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
Oyster ssaam with tasso ham, kimchi, pickles, and remoulade

Oyster ssaam with tasso ham, kimchi, pickles, and remoulade

Andrea Bauer

Gastropub with one of the best patios in the city; chef Troy Graves is behind the eclectic small plates.

Our Review

At Troy Graves's gastropub in the former Duchamp, door number one leads to an elegant minimalist bar and a little dining area; door number two to a patio worth spending a summer on, with wood paneling and dangling lightbulbs and a convivial atmosphere. The conceit of the restaurant, "globally-inspired pub fare," means sharable small plates, though if you're not careful you may end up with a meal—the lamb-neck sloppy joe was a full-on sandwich, and it came with fries or salad. But this is a kitchen that does right by its veggies. Among my favorites was a simple pile of greens dressed with a killer buttermilk-dill vinaigrette and bolstered by beets and Bohemian Blue, from Wisconsin’s Hidden Springs Creamery; also of note are the spicy kimchi and cool pickles that accompany a buttermilk-fried oyster ssam, and some grilled escarole that complemented buttery ricotta gnocchi. A hanger steak was rich and well cooked beneath its blanket of charred-ramp butter, but it was in another dish—a perfect lemongrass chicken thigh atop a pile of grilled spring onions—that Graves most successfully lives up to the promise in the restaurant’s tagline, with an easy, internationally flavored plate that lands just where it aims to. Read the full review >>

Sam Worley

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Bar Details

At chef Troy Graves's gastropub, door number one leads to an elegant, minimalist bar and a little dining area that in its intimacy and low light sort of recalls Danny's, the bar across the street. Door number two leads to the patio, a patio to spend a summer on, with wood paneling and dangling lightbulbs and a convivial atmosphere. The cocktail list tends toward the fruity—not such a bad thing in summer—but the beer list is impressive, and there are also booze snow cones—on one visit, a Templeton rye manhattan, a Bulleit bourbon old-fashioned, and a mojito made with Grey Goose pear. —Sam Worley

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