click to enlarge range.jpg

Aimee Levitt

Twee farm-to-table restaurant that proves winning despite itself.

Our Review

Range is a restaurant with a mission. It says so at the bottom of the menu. That mission is to "apply our passions toward the connections, laughter, and delight kindled when joining family and friends at the table." The aforementioned menu is seasonal, comprising local ingredients the purveyors of which are mentioned by name. Range's idea of a joke is the sign outside, which is made of AstroTurf. It's artificial, geddit, while everything inside is totally natural. Our server's sweater had a bird on it. But despite its high-minded philosophy, Range's menu is pretty conventional, a mix of bar snacks, sandwiches, flatbreads, and entrees, one of which is fried chicken (aka the new bacon). Experimentation is limited to the tiniest items, like the pumpkin bites, fritters made of pumpkin seeds and Jack cheese in a delicious poblano cream sauce, and to some truly odd presentations, like almond-rosemary butter lavished on a plate as though it were the equal of the steak and potatoes instead of a mere condiment. And yet . . . much as you want to hate Range for its tweeness and weirdness for the sake of being weird, the food is good enough to kindle not just delight but forgiveness.

Aimee Levitt

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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