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River North reincarnation of the longtime jazz club and champagne emporium; downstairs is Watershed (see separate listing).

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I'm happy to report that in my long life I've now had a much stronger bash at what Dorothy Parker called "sufficient champagne," thanks to a stop at Pops for Champagne in the old Tree Studios. The extensive menu of more than 125 champagnes and sparkling wines is served in "real," French glasses—they're shorter—that make the champagne-drinking experience much more pleasurable. Pops also serves smart, salty little nibbles to encourage imbibing—oysters, salami and cheese—plus some more substantial selections. And there's live jazz Sunday through Tuesday, with no cover. In a nutshell: lovely, fizzy fun. —Elizabeth M. Tamny

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