Argyle Street Vietnamese storefront.

Our Review

There’s more to Pho 888 than just pho, the Southeast Asian noodle soup that marries funky meat and vibrantly fresh vegetables within a complex broth. Our spring rolls were constructed of delicate rice tissues and layers of sparkling mint leaves enfolding marinated beef and onion and thick as a Maxwell Street Polish. Cha is a house-made sausage of minced ham, potato, and fish sauce--our server told us they serve up to 1,000 orders of this Vietnamese bologna a week. Throwbacks to French colonial days, banh mi are minibaguettes stuffed with meat and vegetables: we were tickled by one of sweet grilled pork, cucumbers, onions, and green shoots, a savory fistful of bright tastes and contrasting textures. Bowls of orange fish sauce are spiked with, for instance, garlic or ginger to make each more suitable to a specific dish. With around 200 reasonably priced menu items, there’s much more to explore, including congees (rice porridges) and fish in clay pots. No alcohol is served, so we sipped a smoothie of durian, the sulphurously stinky “King of Fruit” rendered edible with cream, sugar, and ice--and an odor-containing plastic lid.

David Hammond

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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