Pearl's Southern Comfort | Edgewater | Southern/Soul Food | Restaurant
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A friendly Edgewater spot serving creole and Cajun cuisine and craft cocktails.

Our Review

To vastly oversimplify the distinctions between creole and Cajun cuisines: creole food has tomatoes, Cajun food typically doesn't. The creole jambalaya at Pearl's is a good illustration of the difference. Some recipes for creole jambalaya call for tomato juice and diced tomatoes, others for diced tomatoes alone. In the version served at Pearl's, bits of andouille, chicken, and shrimp are doused in what's basically a tomato sauce, spicy and acidic, not unlike a loose arrabbiata. This preparation probably isn't for everyone—I prefer it the Cajun way—but it's indicative of the kitchen's appreciation for the nuances of the region's food. Pearl's is the brainchild of Danny Beck, owner of the Lakeview sports bar Toons, and his wife, Annie, a pastry chef. Seafood-wise, the kitchen knows its way around a catfish fillet. The blackened flesh is moist and fresh tasting, and the collards that accompany it are as good as any I've had in the south. As southern food continues to take over this Yankee town, Pearl's has emerged as another worthwhile place to sate a craving for the region's cuisine, sure, but also to indulge a collective longing for perpetual warmth, trees draped with Spanish moss, and the year-round hum of cicadas. Winter looms, but Pearl's is an escape.

Gwynedd Stuart

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa


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