Osteria Via Stato | River North | Italian | Restaurant
Lettuce Entertain You Italian restaurant featuring food by David Di Gregorio (Maggiano's).

Our Review

The courses at Osteria Via Stato progress in the Italian tradition: from family-style antipasti and pasta to a small selection of entrees and side dishes to an optional cheese course. Ordering is simple: there's a fixed-price menu at $38.95; diners make only one choice, from a selection of six to ten entrees, and then the cavalcade of courses begins, with appetizers and sides changing nightly depending on what's fresh and in supply. (There's also an a la carte menu.) One night the antipasti included chilled house-cured salmon with radishes, drizzled with fruity olive oil and sprinkled with salt and pepper; paper-thin roasted fennel topped with melted Parmigiano Reggiano and butter; and a simple but delicious plate of salumi with olives. The first course changes frequently too--on one visit we got a toothsome pappardelle with a hearty tomato-based duck ragu; another time it was orecchiette with braised bitter greens. On a given evening entrees might include a wonderfully tender four-ounce veal tenderloin or a flaky monkfish osso buco. The well-conceived wine list offers a range of Italian flights.

Laura Levy Shatkin

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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