Noli's | Albany Park | Pizza, European, Mediterranean | Restaurant
Quite possibly the only Albanian pizzeria in town. Specializes in New York-style pies.

Our Review

Though it’s possibly the only Albanian pizzeria in town, Noli’s sells New York-style pizza. It’s too bad that the Albanians haven’t seemed to master the delicate alchemy of coaxing a red-tinged grease out of their cheese in the manner of a good New York pie. Maybe they don’t cook it long enough, or hot enough. Maybe there’s too much cheese and not enough sauce, or the crust is too doughy. Maybe they’ve put too much effort into their Hawaiian pizza, but the New York style here is, at best, only for emergencies. What Noli’s does do well is the hot puffy Balkan pastry called borek. Pulled from the oven, they look like phyllo balloons straining upward against their meat, cheese, or spinach ballast. The ground meat borek is bland, but the cheese variety is filled with a thick, slightly sharp white cheese, and the spinach is a tangy amalgamation of greens and cheese. The oven turns out sweet pastries and fresh bread by the loaf, and the refrigerator is filled with tubs of house-made yogurt. These things are good for the road, but the hot stuff doesn’t travel well, so it’s best to eat on the premises.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa



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