Nami Sushi Bar | Ravenswood | Japanese, Global/Fusion/Eclectic | Restaurant
Overburdened sushi and surprisingly tasty, if out of place, fusion dishes like duck rillettes, hangar steak bulgogi, and macaroni gratin.

Our Review

I don't know about you, but I can't count the times I've been working through a Kewpie-drenched spider roll when I'm interrupted by a hankering for fine French charcuterie—because it's never happened before. And yet there I was at Ravenswood's newish Nami Sushi Bar, standing at the edge of the abyss wondering if the sky would implode if I augmented my negi hama and salmon skin maki with an order of duck rillette with dijon, frisee, dried cherries, cornichons, and . . . yuzu gelee and shrimp chips. That's not the only oddball on the menu here, where the sort of garish, overdressed sushi I'm always railing against is augmented by a grab bag of seemingly wrongheaded fusion dishes. Filipino poutine, cheese fries smothered in pork belly, calamansi mayo, cheddar, and a fried egg, makes an appearance. There's macaroni "gratin" with bacon, mushrooms, shrimp, and chicken; tempura shrimp and grits; and hanger steak bulgogi. There are two different restaurants operating here it seems: one determined to bury mediocre fish in mucky swamps of sweet, creamy sauce and one hinting at an imaginative facility for turning bad ideas into tasty eats.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
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