Mott St | Wicker Park/Bucktown | Asian, Global/Fusion/Eclectic, Craft Cocktails | Restaurant
Edward Kim's follow-up to Ruxbin, featuring polyglot street-food-inspired fare.

Our Review

At this follow-up to his celebrated Ruxbin, Edward Kim offers a nebulous collection of cheffed-up pan-Asian street foods, throwing together mostly Korean elements with Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Indian, and even Polish and Mexican ones. So, for example, Mott St offers a version of Punjabi butter chicken, repulsively dubbed "Harry's Butter Thighs": confit poultry parts drowning in a thick tomato-butter sauce that barely references the melange of spices that suffuses the original. Then you have Mott St's version of the oyster-bacon omelet known as the hangtown fry—soft-scrambled eggs piled atop a thin, crispy pancake bedecked with hard-fried oysters and pickled mushrooms, all doused with hoisin sauce. Perhaps most initially intriguing is the crab-brain fried rice, but the flavors are muted, and the texture of the "brains" (which are in fact the totality of the crab's internal organs) disappears in the soft, just-overcooked rice. There are some nice things to ferret out, like Kim's naengmyeon, Korean cold buckwheat noodles, or his "kimchi lasagna," two beds of sticky rice sandwiching shredded pork in a pool of kimchi broth. Brightly and aggressively flavored, this deconstructed take on stuffed cabbage is the first sturdy bridge between cuisines on the menu. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Bar Details

Mott St has an interesting beverage program, mostly Asian-inspired cocktails that are light, refreshing, and unlikely to start trouble—including the Malort-and-whiskey-based How Bazaar. But most appealing is a changing series of beer-and-shot pairings: something dark with an Italian amaro, or the grapefruit-flavored Stiegl Radler with a pour of Malort. The thing here is that the beers are poured over ice Vietnamese style, which in hot climates can be the most civilized and refreshing way to drink them. It's a clever, successful, and effortless adaptation of a particular cultural quirk


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