Mithai Restora | West Ridge | Indian/Pakistani | Restaurant
A Devon Avenue buffet specializing in the two things Bengalis love most: fish and sweets.

Our Review

A famous Bengali proverb says: "Machhe bhate bangali," or "Fish and rice make a Bengali." In Chicago that’s been quietly evident for years from the presence of a handful of small shops on and around Devon Avenue that stock freezers full of imported fish with names like hilsa, kajoli, boal, mrigal, and koral. And now there's Mithai Restora, a Devon Avenue buffet specializing in the two things Bengalis love most: fish and sweets. Proprietor Sayeed Ahmed has taken advantage of Chicago’s—the state’s, really—Bengali vacuum by recruiting an experienced chef from New York, Shaker Ahmed (no relation), to cook anywhere from a dozen to 15 different items each day. They’re displayed “New York cafe style,” as Ahmed describes it, meaning they’re kept in a cold case, under 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and reheated to order in a microwave. That might sound unappetizing, but these soulful dishes somehow take to the treatment, deepening in flavor as their spices harmonize over a few hours in the cooler. Ahmed’s fish preparations rotate daily but it’s not all fish—in addition he turns out chicken, beef, and bone-in goat curries that swim in a preponderance of thick, savory sauce. There's also a variety of dense, sugary treats for anyone overindulging in the rich, spicy curries teeming with fish from the waters of Bengal.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$

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