Michoacanito | Irving Park | Mexican/Southwestern | Restaurant
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Mike Sula

Specials—and handmade tortillas—are the thing at this tiny storefront with a surprisingly broad menu.

Our Review

This tiny storefront from a couple of enterprising former street vendors offers a menu impressively broad for such a small operation: breakfast, mariscos, jugos, licuados, aguas frescas, quesadillas, burritos, gorditas, huaraches, tortas, tacos, and a full page of platillos. The soups are popular, mostly caldo de pollo, its yellow depths concealing big chunks of chicken, chayote, potatoes, carrots, and ears of corn, or caldo de res, a sea of beef stock surrounding a towering island of tender beef. But I've come to realize that the best bets are often the specials scribbled on the whiteboard. One I never fail to order when I see it is the guisado, a formidable pork and potato stew, which is stored in a large bucket of stock in the refrigerator waiting for you to specify "rojo" or "verde." (That refers to the two house-made table salsas that precede the meal with a basket of chips and pull double duty dressing the guisado.) The meat is fatty and fall-apart tender either way, but the rojo, which is thick and blazing with chiles de arbol, will scour your sinuses. Both styles are a superb deal. And then there are the house-made tortillas—you have to ask for them, and there's an upcharge, but they're thick, doughy, and warm, almost breadlike. A single quesadilla made on one of them was enough to vanquish a 15-year-old quesadilla conquistador of my acquaintance. Read more >>

Mike Sula

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