Más | West Loop/Fulton Market | Mexican/Southwestern | Restaurant
Upscale Mexican from Yanni Sanchez (Sabor Saveur, Cine).

Our Review

I'm guessing the "más" is meant to refer to the abundance of different elements in each one of chef Yanitzin Sanchez's dishes, from the "tropical" guacamole, featuring diced pear, cantaloupe, jicama, and tomato, to the crudos, one of which contains tuna, mayo, avocado, cucumbers, and sesame seeds. In the pursuit of originality Sanchez makes some odd choices. Esquites, essentially a corn salad, is served in a jar that's topped off at the table with consomme, obscuring the shriveled tiny kernels that swim among poblano, bell peppers, cotija cheese, and deposits of panna cotta. Underseasoning sinks many of the dishes, from three fat pork-and-beef meatballs with chipotle salsa and truffled black-bean puree to a rib eye loaded with chimichurri, superthin fries, grape tomatoes, cheese, and beans. There are 13 taco choices, and I got lucky with the shrimp, which despite its odd and somewhat redundant components, including potato chips and chorizo and bacon, is still all about the snappy, sweet crustaceans. A grouper taco's chunks of crispy hot fish are buried in pink mayo and a watermelon, radish, and cucumber "gazpacho." Same for the pastor, swamped under an avalanche of pineapple relish, and the carnitas, burdened by favas, epazote, pickled red onion, truffle oil, salsa, cheese, and potato flakes. The oddest thing on the menu is a duck taco, the meat wet with red-lentil salsa, cradled in another section of thinly shaved jicama. Perhaps not surprisingly, the best thing I ate was a simple dessert: an eggy brick of brioche French toast.

Mike Sula

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