Magnolia Bakery | Loop | Bakery | Restaurant
Block 37 location of the New York cupcake bakery made famous by Sex & the City.

Our Review

Because New York City’s Magnolia Bakery is basically the ur-sweetshop of the detestable cupcake craze, I was fully—even zealously—prepared to detest this new Block 37 outpost, which joins franchises in Los Angeles and Dubai. No such luck, though. As it happens, Magnolia’s most iconic cultural contribution, the vanilla-frosted vanilla cupcake, was the least of what we tried—which isn’t even to say that it was bad. But you’d be wise to venture through the rest of this excellent bakery’s menu of classic American pastries. Cakes here have a tender, slightly dry crumb that doesn’t clobber the palate in sugary excess; particularly good in that department were the towering coconut layer cake, covered with elegant swoops of meringue, and the snickerdoodle cupcake, a spicy little thing finished with meringue, too, and sprinkled with cinnamon. The standard frosting, a sweet, heavy buttercream, wasn’t much to my liking, but Magnolia still does it better than its legions of imitators. Take note of the refrigerated case, or the icebox, as they call it here—the specimens it holds are models of confectionary restraint. The peanut butter pie was ethereal: hardly sweetened, it tasted like peanut butter and air, anchored by crisp cookie crust. Ditto the wonderful key lime cheesecake, one of the lightest versions I’ve ever tried, and one of the best. The shop’s interior is cheery and pastel, and the staff—a large colony of bakers and counterfolk, working full-tilt even on a Sunday evening—were friendly and helpful. Would that eating your words was always this sweet.

Sam Worley

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover



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