Little Goat Diner | West Loop/Fulton Market | Bakery, Coffee Shop, American, Breakfast, Burgers, Bar | Restaurant
Stephanie Izard's take on the diner.

Our Review

Stephanie Izard's diner fills a gaping hole in Randolph's restaurant row: as at an actual diner, it's possible to have eggs at night, burgers at dawn, and pancakes at lunch; the intimidatingly large and varied menu promotes dithering the retro-outfitted servers patiently endure. And some of the most memorable items are outlandish—I'm still thinking of a visually repellent but ultimately winning "breakfast spaghetti and clams" in which, somehow, all the flavors and textures remain intact. The same is true of a fork-tender boneless pork chop buried under a soupy, sour, salty stew of cauliflower, kimchi, and guanciale. As might be expected given the variety and ambition, some things just don't work—a banh mi on too-dense bread, an ascetic egg-and-paratha burrito, vaginal-looking crab dip with crackers. But my biggest problem with the Little Goat might be its inflexibility in the burger department. Sure, you can get beef, goat, or veggie patties in a half-dozen iterations, but none any more rare than medium. The beef and goat here come from respected local farms whose animals deserve better tribute than the tough, dry burgers they contribute to. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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