Le Fleur de Lis | Bronzeville | Southern/Soul Food | Restaurant
New Creole restaurant serving home-style recipes from the owner's southern family. There's a brunch with live jazz on Sundays.

Our Review

This new Creole-inspired Bronzeville restaurant in the former Negro League Cafe seeks not just to provide good food but to create a community. Sundays are all-day affairs with a popular all-you-can-eat brunch with live jazz and poetry readings at night; there's karaoke on Thursdays. Our charming server told us that he'd been homeless prior to walking up to the place in the midst of its renovation and asking for a job. Co-owner Allen J. Rochelle, a native of New Iberia, has drawn on the recipes of his family in Louisiana for his eclectic menu, which employs "Creole" loosely, omitting classics like oysters, blackened fish, and trout meuniere. But gumbo was a thick, spicy green-tinted roux with chicken, sausage, and shrimp, and a special of house-made boudin blanc sausage was subtly spiced. The catfish in a po'boy was a pair of hot, curled fried fillets encased in a thin, delicate, spice-specked batter that didn't crunch so much as slide off, topped with a house-made remoulade. The same faultless batter surrounded the half dozen shrimp atop the less-stellar red beans and rice, which looked reheated. But the crawfish etoufee was a creamy, semi-thick orange red with lingering heat; a doughy, sweet lemon square came covered by a blizzard of powdered sugar.

Izidora Angel

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