Laschet's Inn | North Center | German/Austrian, Bar/Lounge, Craft Beer | Restaurant
Home-style German cooking in a bar bedecked with Deutschabilia. The kitchen is open till 10:30 PM Tuesday through Saturday.

Our Review

In the past, this little bar, bedecked with Deutschabilia, could be accused of harboring a clubby, aloof atmosphere. Maybe the addition of home-style cookery is responsible for the pervading spirit of gemütlichkeit that’s replaced it. Old guys still tie it on and sing in the mother tongue at the bar, but they mingle with a younger crowd: relative shortpants working tattooed biceps with huge steins of beer or neighborhood mommies and daddies introducing offspring to their first Wiener schnitzel. There's a range of robust provender to accompany the wide selection of German beer on draft. Big steaming plates of roast veal or sauerbraten, cooked long and laden with rich gravy, are the most dependably hearty dishes, but the relatively lighter, crispy schnitzels wouldn’t starve anyone either. In the middle of that scale, königsberger klopse, soft meatballs in lemony sauce with capers, or sausage duets of glistening bratwurst, Thuringer, or veal wieners are fine fuel for long winter hibernations. Most plates are flanked by spaetzle or roast potatoes and a pile of sweet stewed red cabbage, and rounded out with a soup du jour—for example, a thin but deliciously hammy pea soup—or a distinctly German interpretation of vegetables, e.g., a three-beaner with pineapple. These dishes are icons of meat-and-potatoes eating, which isn’t to say there aren’t opportunities for decadence: you can’t get any more fancypants than the Saturday-night special hackepeter appetizer—coarse rye bread topped with raw minced beef garnished with chopped onions and capers. Go on any day but Monday, when the kitchen is closed.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa


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