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Popular but hit-or-miss Pilsen cafeteria.

Our Review

Next to a grocery with the same name, this little cafeteria offers middle-of-the-road Mexican food at reasonable prices, starting at breakfast with egg-and-tortilla dishes like migas and chilaquiles. Dining here is hit-or-miss, with the pork in chile arbol and pollo en salsa (chicken breast cooked in a clear stew of zucchini and corn) among the hits. North Mexican-style tamales, moist with manteca (lard) and filled with slightly piquant meat, are available for carryout; barbacoa, too, is available to go. Chiles rellenos with meat were tasty, layered with chayote and slightly spicy. But patas de puerco (pigs’ feet) were the worst thing I’ve eaten in a very long time: I wouldn’t have thought even trotters had such large pockets of meatless and generally tasteless fat wrapped around the bones. Gorditas dulces are an excellent dessert for those who like pastry, flavored with vanilla and shreds of cinnamon bark for a pleasant explosion of flavor. Servers are very friendly and speak English as well as most of us speak Spanish.

David Hammond

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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