Kinmont | River North | Seafood, Contemporary/Regional | Restaurant
Sustainable-seafood-focused restaurant in the former Zealous; the chef is Duncan Biddulph (Rootstock, Lula).

Our Review

This seafood restaurant from Element Collective (Old Town Social, Nellcote) serves only sustainable seafood, focusing on "rough," or less commonly eaten, environmentally secure fish that aren't (yet) about to go the way of the coelacanth. Chef Duncan Biddulph's menu adheres to the traditional appetizer/entree format for the most part, though there are plenty of communal-style feasting options to foster a chummy spirit—giant crocks of fisherman's stew, whole fish for the table, shellfish boils, and seafood towers. Raw oysters I tried, from both coasts, were fresh and cleanly enough shucked; more unusual, and quite delicious, was an appetizer of salmon tartare served with crisp flatbread flecked with whole herbs. For now, though, executional flaws—like two fish entrees that arrived unforgivably dry and overcooked—are far too common in this busy spot. At the same time, the trout I ate in the simple "catch of the day" preparation—broiled and served with a bright lemon-parsley sauce—was perfectly cooked and one of the most memorably tasty things I encountered. Dishes like this give me confidence that this kitchen isn't incapable of doing great things with these humble fish. But right now it isn't doing many of them any favors. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Bar Details

Taking a bit of shtick from the Lettuce Entertain You school of restaurant design, the walls of this fish house are bedecked with lanterns and papered with old articles from Field & Stream, giving it something of the air of a midwestern supper club. To drink, Kinmont offers a roundup of classic cocktails—like a watery, weak Tom Collins—and a few originals like the Fernet-spiked, manhattanesque Bridgetown Milano, plus modest craft beer and wine lists. —Mike Sula


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