Kabobi Grill | Albany Park | Middle Eastern | Restaurant
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Kabobi

Mike Sula

Persian spot with a tightly focused menu of massive kebab-and-rice platters.

Our Review

Kabobi Grill is challenging Noon-O-Kabob’s Persian hegemony in Albany Park with a tightly focused menu of massive kebab-and-rice platters. A round aluminum tray is lined with thin lavosh upon which a pair of long kebabs (choices range from ground sirloin or ground lamb to chicken or turkey, filet mignon or salmon) repose beside an insurmountable mound of white or dill rice mixed with fava beans, a split grilled tomato, and a foil-wrapped pat of butter. It's mostly about the platters at Kabobi, evidenced by the tables full of diners who camp out, languidly working their way through them amid long and animated conversations. But there are a few other entrees, like tomato-braised lamb shanks and bowls of ghormeh sabzi (a lemony stew of spinach, kidney beans, and beef), plus a few salads and familiar Levantine appetizers like falafel, hummus, and baba ghanoush. But if you're going that route, stick with the strictly Persian kashkeh bodemjan (or, more often, kashk e bademjan), a sumptuous mash of roasted eggplant and caramelized onions enriched by reconstituted dried yogurt. Likewise, in terms of sweets, the neighborhood has no shortage of baklava purveyors, but you don't often see bamieh, churro-like, rosewater-scented doughnuts. They're sweet and as airy as a down pillow. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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