iCream | Wicker Park/Bucktown | Ice Cream | Restaurant
High-tech ice cream shop with customized offerings.

Our Review

This much ballyhooed liquid nitrogen ice cream shop opened briefly and flopped colossally back in August, when its machines tried to go all HAL 9000 on the crew. Now Wicker Park’s iCream has reopened, and it’s certainly a good show—you can gasp to your heart’s content when the fog blooms from the bowl. The model enables customers to chose their own liquid base—BGH-free ice cream, yogurt, or soy milk (with low- and no-fat options), then add one of 32 flavors via syringe, then up to three toppings and add-ins, a choice of sweeteners, and finally food coloring as garishly unnatural as you like (purple peach or pink green tea, anyone?). Texturally I’ve found the ice cream far less creamy and smooth than a typical old-fashioned gelato, and the flavors are very much in the background, despite not being overwhelmingly sweet. The yogurt has the pleasant tang of the real thing, though it shouldn’t be paired with every flavor—i.e., chocolate. Surprisingly—or perhaps not—the vegan-friendly soy milk seems best suited to the liquid nitrogen treatment, resulting in bright flavors that can stand up to their dense, creamy delivery system.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa



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