Well-made Americanized Chinese standards.

Our Review

Wah Sun has had a loyal following (including a local alderman who eats here regularly) for decades, but the restaurant's been especially good since chef-owner Mark Chiang bought it in 2001. His meat and seafood are surprisingly tender, as in a dish of melt-in-your-mouth beef with tomatoes and green pepper in black-bean sauce, or the not-too-greasy chow fun noodles with succulent chunks of all-white-meat chicken, or the Szechuan shrimp with real heat and more plump, tender shrimp than $11.50 usually gets you (a small is just $7.50). The fried rice is excellent -- every grain has touched the surface of the wok. The sauces tend towards gloppiness, but the flavors come through bright and clear (as in the beef and tomato dish). Portions are extraordinarily generous and easily feed two. A full bar includes $6.95 tropical drinks.

Peter Tyksinski

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