Hewn | Evanston | Bakery | Restaurant
Artisanal bakery featuring breads and pastries made from wild yeast.

Our Review

Hewn takes terrible advantage of the most basic law of economics: that scarcity and inconvenience will only make the public want something more, and be willing to pay a premium for it. This artisan bakery in Evanston produces a limited amount of bread, pastry, sandwiches, and flatbreads every day, and once they're all gone, the place closes. By 1 PM on a recent Tuesday, they were down to two sandwiches and a single piece of flatbread. By 1:15, those were gone too. By necessity, everything is to go; there are no tables or even a counter. Is a Brie and greens sandwich on a slender minibaguette eaten outside worth $9? Probably not, but both the croissant and the kouign amann—a Breton pastry made of buttery, flaky dough and covered in a crust of sugar that caramelizes as it bakes—are a sound investment of time and money ($3 each). The country bread is just about perfect, a mix of soft and crisp, sweet and sour. Each loaf is kneaded and shaped by hand and fermented for 17 hours with wild yeast. There are 15 breads on the menu, but only a few will appear on any given day; either call ahead or take your chances. Is this worth $6 to you? Or would you rather go to Panera or Whole Foods and get exactly what you want, knowing it was made by machines instead of artisans?

Aimee Levitt

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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