Hema Potla brings her Indian fare from Devon to Lincoln Park with this second location.

Our Review

After being outed by Check, Please! some years ago, the original Hema's Kitchen on Devon went from being a quiet, well-regarded secret to getting mobbed. The long lines and enthusiasm led owner Hema Potla to expand further south. Not a bad idea—there has long been a real Indian-food void in Lincoln Park. Unfortunately, Hema's Kitchen II does nothing to fill it. The predominant taste on a recent visit was hot—not the complex heat that usually makes Indian food so interesting, but tongue-numbing, open-up-the-sluices, Katie-bar-the-friggin'-door hot. Tandoori chicken suffered instead from its withered, bone-dry texture, but the fish curry was excellent, brimming with huge chunks of catfish in an earthy, aromatic curry blessedly free of the offending pepper. And the gulab jamun was extraordinary, the best I've had in ages.

Chip Dudley

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