HB Home Bistro | Lakeview | Contemporary/Regional | Restaurant
Homey, hearty BYO storefront.

Our Review

Originally HB and run by the Hearty Boys of Food Network fame, this Boys Town mainstay was taken over by their opening chef, Joncarl Lachman, a few years back. The loft-look storefront decorated with vintage mirrors and black-and-white photos by "front-of-the-house guy" Bob Moysan is the sort of friendly restaurant you'd like to have in your neighborhood. On a recent visit the waiters seemed to know most of their customers, occasionally even sitting down with them. Specials, written on a blackboard, bop around the Mediterranean and beyond, and Lachman's cooking remains . . . well, hearty. Plump black mussels "Amsterdam" style swam in an extremely buttery herb-flecked beer broth, along with fennel, garlic cloves, and slices of carrot. A special of creamy risotto with braised rabbit, topped with coarsely grated Parmesan and garnished with green apple and fennel fronds, had enough flavor to compensate for the slightly overdone rice. Caesar salad came swathed in a tangy anchovy dressing, though I'd prefer crisp inner leaves of romaine to the dark green outer ones and multiple croutons to the single tooth breaker. A seared salmon fillet was cooked through but still moist, and I liked the bed of curried lentils, roasted brussels sprouts, firm chickpeas, and fingerling potatoes in toasted mustard-seed butter, even if it threatened to overwhelm the fish. The massive double-cut pork chop served with sweet mashed butternut squash, peppery braised purple cabbage, and whiskey-glazed apples is one of the most popular entrees on the seasonal menu--and for good reason. Desserts aren't artful, but bananas Foster bread pudding or chocolate chocolate-chip bundt cake should satisfy anyone's inner child. HB Home Bistro is permanently BYO with no corkage fee.

Anne Spiselman

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover



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