Venerable Portage Park fishmonger offering the aquarian pantheon fresh, deep-fried, smoked, or frozen.

Our Review

This much-beloved fishmonger has been around since 1946 hawking fresh fish and smoking and frying the typical pantheon of aquarian organisms for takeout. Maybe the sea was angry the first time I stopped by, because I found the breading on the fried items bland, and the flavors of the deep fryer overpowered delicate oysters, smelts, perch, and even stalwart hush puppies. I had better luck with the smoked sable, which was very moist and tender, though the sturgeon was dense, dry, and tough. Still, compared to the average fish shack, Hagen’s is well stocked with frozen lobster tails, caviar, and Polish and Scandinavian specialty dry goods. They’ll clean, smoke, and/or grind your catch for you too.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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