Vegetarian restaurant with an eclectic menu—house-made pastas, a seitan jibarito, plaintain-black bean cakes, etc.

Our Review

The odds may be stacked against Ground Control, Logan Square’s newest all-vegetarian restaurant. Not only did it open on the heels of the Chicago Diner’s much-publicized (and thus far wildly successful) second location, it’s housed in a nondescript space situated off the beaten path in a southwest portion of the neighborhood that’s devoid of foot traffic. Peculiarly, it's also the second meatless venture to set up shop on Armitage that offers a hat tip (deliberately or not) to David Bowie—the cafeteria-style vegan take-out joint Life on Mars shuttered a couple years back. Still, Ground Control is worth the trek, if for nothing more than the awesome jibarito. With layers of slightly tangy house-made seitan crammed in between two crispy plantains, the sandwich was easily the standout of the night. The likewise solid Italian beef, an undertaking of epic proportions, got a welcome kick of heat from made-in-house giardiniera. Appetizers sit on the pricey end considering the portions—though the tofu hot wings seem worth it—and perpetuate Ground Control’s mild identity crisis: does it want to be a candlelit destination or a veg-head sandwich spot? The menu also offers salads, tacos, and fresh pastas, any of which can be made vegan. And during my visit, there were rumblings about potential weekend brunch hours come February.

Kevin Warwick

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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